If you want to make an informed decision on what sunscreen to buy, you should be aware of the potential hazards associated with their key ingredients. Although the purpose of sunscreen is protect you from the damaging rays of the sun, it can also have the unintended impact of exposing you to toxins.
Toxicology is the scientific study of the negative effects of chemicals on living things. Toxins damage or kill living organisms because they react with cellular components to disrupt metabolic functions. As a society, we produce an abundance of synthetic chemicals that each achieve an objective but simultaneously pose unintended hazards. We are then bombarded with toxins from all of the products we use without consciously calculating the risks and rewards. Sunscreen is no exception. While it offers some degree of sun protection, it also contains toxins that are absorbed into the skin and pose other health risks. Not all sunscreens are created equal. Below, is a breakdown of toxins to look out for, followed by a list of Canadian-made sunscreens that do not contain them.
How do toxins affect us?
Allergens - are substances that activate the immune system. Many are sensitizers of the immune system that are directly allergenic and can trigger reactions to other substances.
Immune System Suppressants - are chemicals that suppress the immune system rather than activate it leaving someone vulnerable to illness.
Endocrine (Hormone) Disruptors - are chemicals that disrupt normal hormone functions. The body's endocrine system is responsible for controlling many of the body's processes including metabolism, growth and development, reproduction, and response to stress and injury. It does this through chemical regulators called hormones. Hormones are produced in one part of the body (typically glands) and affect another part. Toxins can prevent hormones from communicating with their target organs.
Neurotoxins - are a special class of poisons that target nerve cells. Most are extremely toxic and fast acting.
Mutagens - are agents that damage or alter genetic material (DNA). These can lead to birth defects, tumors, or be passed on to future generations.
Carcinogens - are substances that cause cancer.
Teratogens - are chemicals that cause abnormalities during embryonic growth and development. They can cause birth defects.
Key Ingredients to Avoid in Sunscreen
The following chemicals work by absorbing the sun's radiation and converting it to heat. Although they have been approved for use in sunscreen, the issue is that concentration matters and high levels of these chemicals can act as toxins. They are highly absorbent and may stay in the body for a long time (i.e. they do not simply wash off at the end of the day).
Oxybenzone - acts as an allergen, endocrine disruptor, teratogen and is possibly carcinogenic. It has been found to lower testosterone levels in adolescent males. Female exposure has been linked to increased risk of endometriosis and possibly breast cancer. Finally, studies have found that exposure to oxybenzone affects birth weight and length of pregnancy for both male and female babies. Oxybenzone is readily absorbed through the skin and has been found in higher than recommended levels in individuals that use sunscreen.
Octinoxate - acts as a hormone disruptor mainly on the metabolic and reproductive systems. It also acts as an allergen. Like oxybenzone, octinoxate is readily absorbed through the skin and has been found in regular sunscreen users in high levels.
Octisalate - is an allergen and possibly an endocrine disruptor. It is highly absorbent and can be found in regular sunscreen users in high levels.
Homosalate - another highly absorbent toxin, it is an endocrine disruptor and is not easily excreted by the body. In other words, it stays in your system for a long time.
Octocrylene - is an allergen and possible endocrine disruptor. It is often combined with benzophenone, which is known to be carcinogenic. Octocrylene is highly absorbent and can be found in sunscreen users.
Avobenzone - this is not a stable chemical. When it breaks down, its products can act as allergens and endocrine disruptors.
Source: The trouble with ingredients in sunscreen. (n.d.). EWG’s Guide to Sunscreens. Retrieved July 5, 2022, from https://www.ewg.org/sunscreen/
Retinyl Palmitate - is possibly carcinogenic when applied to sun-exposed skin
Benzene - is naturally found in crude oil and gasoline. It is carcinogenic and has many immediate health risks. It is not an ingredient that is added to sunscreen; however, it has been found in many sunscreen products as a contaminant or byproduct of the manufacturing process. Major brands (including Johnson & Johnson) have had to recall their sunscreens due to the presence of benzene.
Why are these ingredients allowed?
The United States takes, what is known informally as, the 'Innocent Until Proven Guilty' approach when it comes to introducing new materials into the market. This means that there is a minimum amount of pre-market testing by industry, the government and scientists that must be done before a product is released to be sold to the public. The benefit of this approach is that there is a great deal of choice available to consumers. The problem is that many of the products will need further testing to determine their level of safety. Regulations, re-calls and bans of products come after they have impacted the public. It is ultimately up to consumers to inform themselves to make the best choice.
European countries take the 'Precautionary Principle' approach with regards to new products. Rigorous testing must be performed to gauge the safety of a product before it can be released to the public. The drawback of this approach is that there is less selection, however, the available products are generally safer and not subject to further regulations, re-calls or bans.
These differing approaches can be seen in action when it comes to sunscreen. For example, the European Commission has set a limit for the concentration of oxybenzone (at 2.2%) and homosalate at (1.4%) to be allowed in sunscreen products. U.S. manufacturers can legally exceed these recommendations and have used these ingredients in far greater concentrations.
Where does Canada fit in?
Health Canada must approve all cosmetics sold in Canada as safe to use and not posing any health risk. They must meet the requirements of the Food and Drugs Act and the Cosmetic Regulations. Given our proximity to the U.S. and reliance on their economy, our government is more lenient than Europe when it comes to releasing products to market. The ingredients listed above can be found in many sunscreens in higher than recommended concentrations. It is important for consumers to be informed and make decisions for themselves.
Safe Canadian Products
Here are some Canadian sunscreen brands that offer an equivalent, if not better, degree of sun protection without the toxic ingredients listed above. Unlike chemical sunscreens which absorb into the skin, mineral based sunscreens form a layer on top of the skin and physically block the sun's harmful rays from penetrating. Thus, mineral sunscreens are not absorbed by the body and do not build up.
Attitude
Attitude's sunscreen line is mineral based and formulated with zinc oxide to provide sun protection. As with all of their products, their sunscreen is produced with an emphasis on safe, natural ingredients while being hypoallergenic, cruelty free, vegan, ocean safe and distributed in recyclable packaging. Attitude's sunscreens come in a lightweight and non-greasy stick for easy application. You do not have to compromise on beauty care as their sunscreens come in tinted, brightening and sensitive skin varieties too.
Cocoon Apothecary
Cocoon Apothecary uses ethically sourced ingredients and makes all of their products in-house to maintain control over the quality of their products. Their skin care line is verified as natural and organic as they have the Ecocert Cosmos Natural or Organic certification. Their sunscreen is mineral based with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide acting as key ingredients offering physical (not chemical) protection from the sun. The sunscreen is non-greasy, moisturizing and made with nourishing sea buckthorn seed oil and pulp extract and shea butter.
Green Beaver
The Green Beaver founders have a background in biochemistry and microbiology and have applied their knowledge to make natural and safe skin care products free of dangerous chemicals. They are responsible for developing the first Canadian organic mineral sunscreen with support from the National Research Council. The key ingredients of this mineral based sunscreen are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. These form a physical barrier on the skin and are not absorbed. 100% of the total ingredients are from natural origin. In addition, the sunscreen moisturizes the skin and does not leave a sticky residue.
Ombrelle
Ombrelle is recognized by the Canadian Dermatology Association for their sunscreen and their products are cruelty free. Ombrelle uses Mexoryl Technology. This is a patented term for a carbon based sun filter. It does not readily absorb into the skin. They offer a mineral sunscreen line as well as chemical based sunscreens. We, at Norther, recommend their mineral line. The mineral sunscreen is is lightweight, fragrance free, colorant free and water resistant for up to 80 minutes. They also offer a lightly tinted mineral sunscreen for the face and one for sensitive skin.
Birch Babe
Birch Babe makes personal care products free of toxins, ethically sourced, and free of plastic and unnecessary packaging. Their mineral based sunscreen is certified all natural, vegan and cruelty free. Its key ingredient is non-nano zinc oxide which reflects the sun's rays without being absorbed into the skin. According to their website, the sunscreen goes on creamy like a moisturizer and rubs in clear.
The Sage Soap Company
The Sage Soap Company makes personal care products from plant based and locally sourced (when possible) elements. The key ingredients in their mineral based sunscreen are carrot seed oil, coconut oil and zinc oxide. Carrot seed oil actually blocks the sun's rays, especially UVB rays. Coconut oil forms a protective barrier on the skin and has microbial and anti-bacterial benefits. Finally, zinc oxide protects against UVA/B rays and does not readily absorb into the skin.
They also make a vegan plant based bug repellent which may come in handy if you are heading outside.